Climbing Mount Kinabalu
Sabah is often touted by travel agents and tour operators for the many natural attractions it offers – dense, untouched rainforests; pristine beaches edging crystal clear waters and mighty river winding deep into the interior. Due to the well preserved natural environment, Sabah is also popular with the outdoor crowd for its jungle trekking, river rafting, water sports and other adventurous activities. Of all the natural attractions and outdoor activities in Sabah however, nothing compares to a climb up the world-renowned Mount Kinabalu.
Though it is popular with climbers of all levels of competencies, Mount Kinabalu is particularly attractive to casual climbers because it is so accessible. Climbing Mount Kinabalu doesn’t require specialized climbing equipment, and
even a moderately healthy and fit person can make the climb in about two days. It is also a spectacular mountain climb, as the trail ascends swiftly from steamy lowland jungle to cool montane forests, through misty cloud forest to sub alpine meadows and finally, to a desolate crown of grey granite.
For climbers, there is also the added attraction of climbing a peak that’s officially recorded as the tallest in South East Asia. The main peak of the mountain, Low’s Peak, is officially listed as 4,095 metres above sea level – and because of imperceptible tectonic movements, the peak is actually growing by about 5mm a year! The mountain itself is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and is the object of veneration to the local Kadazandusun tribe who has lived around its slopes for generations.
The History of Mount Kinabalu
The very name Kinabalu is often attributed to the Kadazan words, aki nabalu, which translates to 'the revered place of the dead'. The name reflects the local belief that the spirits of their ancestors dwell on the mountaintop. Even today, the local guides will perform a religious ceremony every year to appease the spirits of the mountain. The first (foreign) person to climb the mountain was Colonial Secretary for the British crown colony of Labuan, Sir Hugh Low in 1851, and the peak he first climbed is now named after him.
Part of the reason it took so long for a foreigner to climb the mountain was because up until then, the mountain was surrounded by dense jungle, much too difficult for the average traveller to traverse. Since then, a sealed road has been cut though the forest, making the mountain much easier to reach, and since 1964, when the area surrounding the peak was gazetted as a national park, over a million visitors have entered the park. Of all the visitors, about ten percent would make the attempt to climb Mount Kinabalu.
Getting to Mount Kinabalu
Most visitors to Mount Kinabalu come via Kota Kinabalu, the capital city of Sabah located some 90km away. There are direct flights to Kota Kinabalu every day from Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia; there are also direct flights from Singapore, Hong Kong, Manila, Brunei and Taipei.
During the wet season, the trail up Mount Kinabalu is often too slippery and dangerous to climb, so it is best to schedule any climbing trip during the dry season from February to April, when conditions are more favourable. Having said that, there are also excellent dry periods during the inter-monsoon season, between August to September, so sometimes the chances of good weather can come down to just pure luck.
To get to the Kinabalu Park, travellers can take either a bus or taxi from the new town bus station situated in Inanam, about 10 km from the city. From this station, take the 8am bus going to Kundasang/Ranau, which passes by the Kinabalu Park Headquarters. The trip takes about 2 hours and costs about RM20 a person; alternatively, you could charter a taxi to drive you straight to the Park Headquarters, at about RM 90 one way per taxi with a maximum of 4 passengers. If you’ve booking a climbing package from a hotel or tour operator, transportation is usually included.
Once at the park, don’t forget to pay the entrance fee, the climbing permit fee and mountain guide fee. The guide is not an option – climbers must be accompanied by a guide at all times. The fee for the guide varies depending on the number of people in the party. Groups can also pay for a porter to carry their luggage up the mountain. There is also fee for insurance, transport to the Timpohon gate where the actual climb begins, and for the certificate indicating a completed climb. These fees do not include accommodation, equipment (if any) and food.
When planning for the climb, make sure your accommodation bookings are made well in advance. Sutera Sanctuary Lodges is the only authorized accommodation provider in Kinabalu Park, and because of the increase in climbers in recent years, they are often fully booked months ahead. Arranging your accommodations in advance is also important because if you do not make a booking for the second night at the Laban Rata lodge, you will not be allowed to continue the ascent to the summit. Most visitors will stay one night in the Kinabalu Park Headquarters, and one night at the Laban Rata. There is a variety of accommodations at both locations, from hostel dorms to exclusive chalets. Due to the high altitude, Laban Rata can get very cold, down to 0 °C at night. Heated rooms are only available at the Laban Rata Resthouse, so you might want to specify a heated room when you make your booking!
Climbing the Mountain
The climb up to the summit takes two days, ascending along a winding 8.5km trail along the southern side of the mountain. This may not seem far, but over this relatively short distance, climbers will be ascending almost 3,000 metres, a very sharp rise in altitude. The climb is broken up into two segments; the Trail climb on the first day, and the Summit climb which begins very early the following morning. Though the climb is relatively easy compared to other mountain treks, it is still a significantly taxing physical activity, so before going on your climb, make sure you consult with your doctor and get a physical examination, particularly if you have to take any medication or have heart, lung or joint problems.
The first Trail climb begins with a short bus ride from the accommodations at the Headquarters to the Timpohon gate, which stands at 1800m. From the gate, climbers will slowly ascend to the Laban Rata hut at 3,300 m – a journey which takes about 3 to 6 hours. The trail’s gradient increases gradually, and the steeper sections have roughly cut, uneven stairs dug into the earth to help ease the climb. To keep from exhausting yourself, it’s best to keep a slow, steady pace; if you can’t hold a conversation when you’re climbing, you’re likely going too fast. You can also stop for a rest at the seven huts or shelters along the way. The shelters also have mountain springs nearby so climbers’ don’t have to carry heavy bottles of water with them. Along this stretch of trail, you’ll be treated to some beautiful forest scenery as you pass from lowland jungle to montane forest, with ferns, orchids, and towering trees all pressing in close to the trail. Kinabalu is particularly blessed for having of the most diverse collection of plant species in the world. Many of these plants are found nowhere else in the world and are protected species, so please don’t pluck the flowers or try to take plants home!
Once climbers reach the Laban Rata, the first part of the climb is over and the remainder of the day is free for some rest and relaxation. The food at the Laban Rata accommodations is rather more expensive than at the Headquarters, because every bit of it has to be hand carried up the trail. It is at this point that altitude sickness usually makes itself felt; and contrary to some opinions, no factors such as age, sex or medical history reliably indicate who will be affected by it. Anyone feeling in the slightest bit sick should stop ascending. Medications can help, but should the symptoms persist, do not continue and return immediately to a lower altitude.
The next section of climb is the Summit climb, which starts very early in the morning, usually at about 3 a.m. At this point, a headlight becomes absolutely essential. The Summit climb covers barely 800m, but this short distance can take up to 4 hours to cover. At the lower attitude, the temperature is still warm enough that thick cotton clothes are all you’d need, but at this stage of the climb, thick rainproof jackets, gloves, balaclavas and other cold-weather gear become necessary, especially for climbers not used to a cold climate. The lower section of this trail is rather steep, and there are ladders in place (often fashioned from tree branches and roots). Fortunately, as the trail nears the edge of the tree line, the trail levels out and climbing becomes easier. At about 3,810 meters, climbers will come to the last mountain hut at Sayat-Sayat. Here, climbers can see the dark forests stretching out below, and the equally dark bulk of the summit looming just up ahead. From this point on, climbers travel over bare, windswept granite rock and at some particularly steep sections, they must pull themselves up the rock face with the aid of ropes anchored in the rock. At this point, be sure to stay close to the ropes and not wander off, as it is easy to lose your bearings in the rocky landscape and wander from the trail.
Finally, climbers will reach the absolute summit – a stark, grey rocky expanse of windswept granite. If the timing is right, and the climbers arrive at about 6am, the sunrise will have just begun and the view of the surrounding peaks bathed in early morning light is magnificent. At this height, the clouds often seem close enough to touch and on some mornings, they really will be low enough to shroud the mountain in white mist.
After taking pictures, having a bit of breakfast and resting, climbers will begin the descent – and it is at this point that the extra caution should be exercised. Most climbers will be tired now, elated at having completed the climb and less likely to pay attention to their footing. It is on the descent that most accidents occur, especially as the trip down puts added pressure on the ankles and knees. On the way down though, if there is time, ask the guide to make aside trip to the ‘sacrifice pool’, where the local guides performed religious ceremonies to appease the spirits of the mountain and their ancestors who dwell on the summit. Once you’ve completed the descent, stop by the Kinabalu Park Headquarters to pick up your certificate. If you completed the ascent up to the Laban Rata, you will be given a black and white certificate signed by your guide; if you complete the final leg of the climb all the way to Low’s Peak, then the certificate will be in colour. With this certificate in hand, you can now proudly say that you’ve successfully climbed the highest mountain in South East Asia!
